![]() ![]() The menu is Japanese with a side of local tropical produce and touches of Nikkei. The golden hour before dusk is a great time to settle into a possie on the terrace and take in the view: the fiery sun melting into the Indian Ocean, and the comings and goings at legendary beach club Old Man's, across the road. Owned by one of Indonesia's most prolific antique collectors, Tugu is a living gallery, including its restaurant, Ji, housed in a reconstructed 1700s temple. Among its very first developments, Hotel Tugu remains a charming place to stay and to visit with an appetite. It was once the rustic indie cousin to neighbouring Seminyak, with just a few warungs and smoothie bars dotted around, however Canggu has seen exponential growth over the past five years. Staff share stories about which region, island, or even particular village a dish hails from as they serve it up, and talk through the way certain ingredients like spices, herbs, and proteins make the dish special.ĭon't miss the nasi goreng babi, a wickedly good fried rice using pork sausage from northern Bali's Singaraja province along with field mushrooms, and the beautiful Sumatran rendition of beef rendang, braised in fresh coconut milk. ![]() The combination of palm forests, mountain and reefs still make Lord Howe a hidden gem to those in the know.Overlooking the lively beachfront pool at Potatohead beach club, Kaum showcases the rich culinary history of the Indonesian archipelago, using produce sourced from small-scale local operators. It’s important to understand reefs can recover from bleaching, as long as they are not stressed for an extended period of time (more than 28 days). ![]() Tragically, some of Lord Howe’s reefs have suffered from heat stress this year, but heading into the Austral winter, there is hope they will have a chance to bounce back. Home to the world’s most southern coral reef, the marine park had avoided the devastating bleaching events that struck global reefs in 2015 to 2017. ![]() With gin clear water, it’s like snorkelling in bouillabaisse. In the lagoons of Lord Howe Island eagle rays, parrot fish, barracudas, Galapagos sharks and a multitude of other fish cram the narrow passages of the fringing reef. These birds literally drop from the sky when you call to them, flying in to investigate and landing clumsily at one’s feet. We also trekked to the base of the mist covered Mount Gower to film in the very noisy Providence Petrel colony. This involved incursions into the forest at night to find fledglings emerging from underground, strengthening their wings in preparation for their first flight out to sea. ![]()
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